Evergreen ShanghaiThis place is deceptively large. From the outside it seems like a dinky Chinese joint, but the doors open to a cavernous interior filled with lunching dorks of all shapes and sizes. Up the street at Moonlighting, the crowd is casual, laid back and at least somewhat involved with fashion from this century. Evergreen is all thinning hair, glasses, pleated khakis and cheap secretary suits. I got a good look around as I waited and waited for my sweet and sour chicken. What self-respecting Chinese restaurant makes you wait more than five minutes for a take out order? Maybe one with actual sit-down service. Sure some of the cheapies around town have seating–but so does a public park. I’m talking tables that don’t have cigarette holes in them and napkins that are bigger than postage stamps here. That’s great, of course, for folks who have those crazy jobs that let you sit for a leisurely lunch, but for those of us who work in the real world, I could give two craps about pleasant atmosphere at my Chinese restaurants. I want fast service, cheap prices and somewhat decent food. They got two out of three, as my sweet and sour chicken was passable, and didn’t make me sick, and the price was right. Maybe next time I’ll stick around and wipe some of that neon orange sauce on one of their linen napkins. Take that, fancy pants! [MF]


10 E 38th St. (bet. Madison & 5th Ave.)
212/448-1199
evergreenshanghai.com