Calling this place gourmet is like calling a Buick Regal sporty; the claim is an obvious farce, but you ignore it and hope that the thing just isn’t a complete disaster. So, the first thing I see when entering the place is a roach scurrying out from the ‘Nilla Wafers. That, I must say, was not what I expected of a “gourmet” deli. I realize, of course, that most every restaurant–and especially every bodega-like establishment–in Manhattan has roaches, but I hate eating a turkey sandwich from a joint right after seeing one of the little buggers. I steeled my nerves and ordered up my grub. Besides having a few too many onions, the sandwich was decent and cheap. They actually put the thing in a little plastic box instead of your typical white paper wrapper, which is a nice touch. Anyway, the place is basically your typical glorified bodega–bugs and all–but if you’re looking to grab a quick sandwich, these are the places that make the city so easy to handle. [MF]
737 9th Ave.