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da Umberto

by mr. hipster November 4, 2011
November 4, 2011
Da Umberto
77

Da UmbertoOld school is both a good and bad thing when it comes to food. There are old school places that have become institutions and churn out great food still. But there are places that just feel old. da Umberto is kind of in that netherworld where old school meets just plain old. Or at least that’s what the superficial exterior and interior of this joint screams. The menu too at first glance tells you it’s just another dusty old Italian joint hanging on to a panoply of the same tired Italian fare. And in some ways you may be right, but decent traditional Italian food made decently, especially on somebody else’s dime, can be as good as anything. And, honestly, in this neighborhood, you have the choice between this place and pulling a rotten slice out of the dumpster behind one of the two takeout pizza joints around the corner. Though the food here will run you about 50 times the cost of a couple slices — fresh ones. And the night we were there, with a large, loud group, the volume, despite it snowing outside, was almost earsplitting. Of course most of that was us — and the 25 bottles of wine we drank — but I have a feeling any given night the noise here breaks the 125dB level. My crostini with grilled polenta, wild mushrooms and taleggio fonduta sounded like it might make my head explode with goodness. It was good, but didn’t live up to the reading. And then I think the porterhouse was decent, but I was so deeerunk by the time it showed up, the thing could have been made of flaccid dog barf and I would have slapped a blue ribbon on it. There was even another side order of polenta that had like three different cheeses in it. I think a hyena stopped by the table and fought me over the last spoonful, but the little I did get was, well… How could it be bad? So I left the joint stuffed to the gills, bleeding from the ears and not even a penny poorer. It’s not as if I’ll ever go back here, but as a one-hitter, I’ve certainly done worse. [MF]


107 West 17th St. (bet. 17th & 18th St.)
212/989-0303
daumbertonyc.com


 

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      January 26, 2024

  • Booze & Grub
    • Booze & Grub ReviewsBooze & Grub: NYCBooze & Grub: NJThe NYC Booze & Grub GraveyardThe NJ Booze & Grub Graveyard
      Booze & Grub Reviews
      Seoul Bistro

      July 4, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews
      Ralph’s Pizzeria and Italian Restaurant

      June 27, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews
      CAVA – 350 Hudson

      June 19, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews
      Rooster’s Nashville Hot Chicken

      June 18, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews
      Oso Felipe

      June 6, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews
      Mambo Cuban Restaurant & Lounge Harrison

      May 23, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NYC
      CAVA – 350 Hudson

      June 19, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NYC
      Westville Hudson

      April 25, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NYC
      Five Guys – Midtown West

      January 25, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NYC
      Jaz Indian Cuisine

      December 23, 2024

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NYC
      Just Salad – Hudson Square

      November 13, 2024

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NYC
      Quality Pizza Co. Midtown

      September 10, 2024

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NJ
      Seoul Bistro

      July 4, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NJ
      Ralph’s Pizzeria and Italian Restaurant

      June 27, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NJ
      Rooster’s Nashville Hot Chicken

      June 18, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NJ
      Oso Felipe

      June 6, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NJ
      Mambo Cuban Restaurant & Lounge Harrison

      May 23, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NJ
      SGD Dubu So Gong Dong Tofu & BBQ…

      May 9, 2025

      The NYC Booze & Grub Graveyard
      NYC Booze & Grub Graveyard: Gone Before Their…

      August 9, 2022

      The NYC Booze & Grub Graveyard
      The Press Box Restaurant & Pub

      August 3, 2021

      The NYC Booze & Grub Graveyard
      Natureworks – Midtown

      May 6, 2021

      The NYC Booze & Grub Graveyard
      The National Bar & Dining Rooms

      April 10, 2021

      The NYC Booze & Grub Graveyard
      Hillstone – Midtown

      March 5, 2021

      The NYC Booze & Grub Graveyard
      Connolly’s Pub & Restaurant – 5th Ave.

      February 12, 2021

      The NJ Booze & Grub Graveyard
      NJ Booze & Grub Graveyard: Gone Before Their…

      July 21, 2024

      The NJ Booze & Grub Graveyard
      Scala del Nonna

      February 15, 2023

      The NJ Booze & Grub Graveyard
      Diesel & Duke – Montclair

      January 30, 2023

      The NJ Booze & Grub Graveyard
      Ruthie’s Bar-B-Q & Pizza

      September 14, 2021

      The NJ Booze & Grub Graveyard
      Junior’s Cheesesteaks & Shakes

      December 21, 2020

      The NJ Booze & Grub Graveyard
      Vanillamore

      June 13, 2020

  • Randomness
    • Travel Reviews
    • Video Game Reviews
    • Product Reviews
    • Odd Finds
    • Diary