I always like a high hipster quotient with my burger. Somehow those stupid-ass trucker hats make the meat more tender and flavorful. Actually, this joint is sort of an anomoly in the East Village. Sure, it has some kids in poly-fibers and mutton chops, but with the good service, straight forward, American menu and mopped floors, one might expect to find this on the Upper West Side rather than Avenue A. We actually thought the place was closed when we walked in, as it was almost empty, but we soon learned that at 8:00PM we were just there really early and that it is extremely popular, as people began to stream in by the tens until there were groups standing inside and outside the front door. We know you’ll all miss the Alphabet City, crap-stuck-on-the-walls-with-spray-epoxy charm, but finding what amounts to an upscale-ish diner in this ‘hood is a godsend when all you want is a clean place to sit and chow some good American grub after battling bike messengers for beers in a grimy dive bar. [MF]

109 Ave. A