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Top Chef: All-Stars L.A.

by mr. hipster June 26, 2020
June 26, 2020
Top Chef All Stars LA
81
Top Chef All Stars LA
Genre: Reality Competition
Network: Bravo
Season Year: 2020
Watch: Peacock

Look, if you’ve seen one Top Chef, you’ve pretty much seen all Top Chefs. This is actually season 17 of the show, so they’ve essentially been to every “food” town and had on every non-rapey (and some totally rapey) chefs that you’ve ever heard of. So it goes to reason that the show itself isn’t going to necessarily break any ground almost two decades in. But, instead, you have to find a contestant to kind of latch on to.

To root for someone whose food you feel speaks to you in some way. If your family is from a specific country or region that you feel one of the chefs particularly reps. Or maybe it’s one of their redemption stories. Or underdog status. Something, anything that you can either see in yourself or in your story that drives you to want that person to live. Even if it’s that you like cooking that’s more science experiment than culinary artistry.

The issue with this season is that it’s an all-star season. That means that these aren’t necessarily hungry, young chefs just coming up in the world. Or even new to the show. They are veterans in one way or another. And, honestly, it shows. Which, to me at least, takes something away from the competition part of the competition. The win-at-all-costs attitudes. The desperation. The drive. The Marcel Vigneron of it all. Never mind the fact there is $250,000 of San Pellegrino’s money at stake (and thousands of gratuitous shots of sparkling water), that never seemed to factor into things. In past seasons, you heard about and thought about what that money could and should mean to a young chef looking to get his or her first solo business off the ground. Here it seems like a bit of an afterthought. Not that the winner won’t appreciate it, I’m sure. And benefit from it. But it just doesn’t feel as crucial and as visceral to their existence.

Yes, I know Top Chef isn’t all about the competition. This isn’t Survivor. It’s about art and, to some extent, pride. I get it. If they were making, say, LEGO towers instead of fresh pasta, I would have way less interest. I do enjoy seeing the meals come together and the creativity they employ. I do miss the Richard Blaises of the world, though. The guys who put magic into their food. The Wylie Dufresne craziness from Top Chef Masters. Because, while there were some interesting chefs this year, the food felt somewhat dull and samey-samey. Granted, it was probably food I’d rather eat in real life than the eye-popping gastronomy, but it was mostly more rustic stuff that lacked some of the pizzaz and wow-factor of some of the previous iterations. I don’t mind subtlety when I’m in a restaurant, but I want spectacle on my television!

The fact I even watch these cooking shows and don’t really cook much myself (save throwing stuff on the grill) is an odd factor in the whole genre. You can’t taste the food they’re cooking. They don’t give you recipes, so it’s not as if you can really recreate them. In fact, these chefs are so skilled, it’s unlikely you’d be able to make this stuff even with a step-by-step. In this season, they’re all even likable. Even the slightly obnoxious Brian Malarkey is disarmingly charming once you kind of get to know him and realize his aesthetic has led to him being one of the most successful chef they have. We didn’t have a villain or even sketchy Michael Voltaggio, who always reminds me of Jeremy Renner’s scary-ass character from The Town.

Mostly it didn’t feel like the chefs took a lot of chances in this season. Sure, I think one of them tried the dreaded risotto. But mainly they stuck to cooking “their” food. Which meant Kevin Gillespie cooked southern food, Gregory Gourdet made Haitian stews, Eric Adjepong made African-inspired dishes and Bryan Voltaggio made very pretty, technique-driven soulless plates (that, oddly, on multiple occasions seemed to just ignore the actual challenge). And while some of these things looked absolutely delicious and were unique on their first go ’round when these contestants were on earlier seasons (especially the cuisine from lesser-known countries and regions), it kind of became old hat in this one.

There just wasn’t a lot of outside thinking. Not a lot of uniqueness. I appreciate they just wanted to cook the best version of their food, but there was nothing new. Granted, the person who actually ended up winning did do more of this than anyone else. They consistently mashed up styles and cuisines to create something authentically different. Which, I guess is why they won. And while I suppose they didn’t cook something inside a smoke dome or make like a bone marrow soufflé, it was recognized that in order to win what does amount to a contest, you have to be bold and creative and take risks. Otherwise, you’re just cooking food and not making art.

2020BravoPadma LakshmiReality CompetitionReality TVTom ColicchioTop Chef
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      The Music List
      The Grunge Diaspora

      August 15, 2024

      The Music List
      I Still Own a Lot of CDs

      June 13, 2024

      The Music List
      Top Listens 2023

      January 1, 2024

      The Music List
      In Defense of: OMC’s “How Bizarre”

      July 18, 2021

      The Music List
      Top 25 Influential Rock Albums

      May 1, 2020

      The Music List
      In Defense Of: Ruben Studdard’s “Sorry 2004”

      December 29, 2019

      Concert Reviews
      The Get Up Kids @ Starland Ballroom

      February 27, 2025

      Concert Reviews
      The Dirty Nil @ White Eagle Hall

      January 26, 2025

      Concert Reviews
      The Beths @ White Eagle Hall

      September 26, 2024

      Concert Reviews
      Pearl Jam @ MSG

      September 9, 2024

      Concert Reviews
      Cloud Nothings @ (Le) Poisson Rouge

      May 15, 2024

      Concert Reviews
      Band of Horses @ The Wellmont Theater

      February 13, 2024

  • Movies
    • Movie Reviews
      Mountainhead

      July 4, 2025

      Movie Reviews
      Fountain of Youth

      June 24, 2025

      Movie Reviews
      A Different Man

      June 10, 2025

      Movie Reviews
      Problemista

      May 22, 2025

      Movie Reviews
      Flipside

      May 4, 2025

      Movie Reviews
      The Gorge

      March 2, 2025

      Movie Reviews
      A Real Pain

      January 31, 2025

  • Books
    • Book Reviews
      Trust

      June 19, 2025

      Book Reviews
      Razorblade Tears

      May 24, 2025

      Book Reviews
      The Plot

      March 14, 2025

      Book Reviews
      Maximum Bob

      February 17, 2025

      Book Reviews
      The Sympathizer

      January 6, 2025

      Book Reviews
      The Zone of Interest

      July 12, 2024

      Book Reviews
      Klara and the Sun

      April 13, 2024

  • Podcasts
    • Podcast Reviews
      The Wedding Scammer

      March 1, 2025

      Podcast Reviews
      Search Engine

      November 27, 2024

      Podcast Reviews
      Hysterical

      August 30, 2024

      Podcast Reviews
      60 Songs That Explain the ’90s

      March 31, 2024

      Podcast Reviews
      Otherworld

      February 29, 2024

      Podcast Reviews
      Behind the Bastards

      February 13, 2024

      Podcast Reviews
      Time Crisis

      January 26, 2024

  • Booze & Grub
    • Booze & Grub ReviewsBooze & Grub: NYCBooze & Grub: NJThe NYC Booze & Grub GraveyardThe NJ Booze & Grub Graveyard
      Booze & Grub Reviews
      Seoul Bistro

      July 4, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews
      Ralph’s Pizzeria and Italian Restaurant

      June 27, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews
      CAVA – 350 Hudson

      June 19, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews
      Rooster’s Nashville Hot Chicken

      June 18, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews
      Oso Felipe

      June 6, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews
      Mambo Cuban Restaurant & Lounge Harrison

      May 23, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NYC
      CAVA – 350 Hudson

      June 19, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NYC
      Westville Hudson

      April 25, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NYC
      Five Guys – Midtown West

      January 25, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NYC
      Jaz Indian Cuisine

      December 23, 2024

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NYC
      Just Salad – Hudson Square

      November 13, 2024

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NYC
      Quality Pizza Co. Midtown

      September 10, 2024

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NJ
      Seoul Bistro

      July 4, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NJ
      Ralph’s Pizzeria and Italian Restaurant

      June 27, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NJ
      Rooster’s Nashville Hot Chicken

      June 18, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NJ
      Oso Felipe

      June 6, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NJ
      Mambo Cuban Restaurant & Lounge Harrison

      May 23, 2025

      Booze & Grub Reviews: NJ
      SGD Dubu So Gong Dong Tofu & BBQ…

      May 9, 2025

      The NYC Booze & Grub Graveyard
      NYC Booze & Grub Graveyard: Gone Before Their…

      August 9, 2022

      The NYC Booze & Grub Graveyard
      The Press Box Restaurant & Pub

      August 3, 2021

      The NYC Booze & Grub Graveyard
      Natureworks – Midtown

      May 6, 2021

      The NYC Booze & Grub Graveyard
      The National Bar & Dining Rooms

      April 10, 2021

      The NYC Booze & Grub Graveyard
      Hillstone – Midtown

      March 5, 2021

      The NYC Booze & Grub Graveyard
      Connolly’s Pub & Restaurant – 5th Ave.

      February 12, 2021

      The NJ Booze & Grub Graveyard
      NJ Booze & Grub Graveyard: Gone Before Their…

      July 21, 2024

      The NJ Booze & Grub Graveyard
      Scala del Nonna

      February 15, 2023

      The NJ Booze & Grub Graveyard
      Diesel & Duke – Montclair

      January 30, 2023

      The NJ Booze & Grub Graveyard
      Ruthie’s Bar-B-Q & Pizza

      September 14, 2021

      The NJ Booze & Grub Graveyard
      Junior’s Cheesesteaks & Shakes

      December 21, 2020

      The NJ Booze & Grub Graveyard
      Vanillamore

      June 13, 2020

  • Randomness
    • Travel Reviews
    • Video Game Reviews
    • Product Reviews
    • Odd Finds
    • Diary