If I owned this joint, I’d call it Bitchin’ Kitchen! That might turn people off, and belie my 1980s Los Angelino roots, but since when do I care what anybody thinks? What makes this place so bitchin’ is the breadth of their offerings. It’s like an upscale cafeteria, or like a mini-Epcot. You have your salad bar, paninis and sandwiches, Italian (pizza and stuff), hot plate and a burrito bar. The interior designers actually thought a little bit about the flow of the place, making things more amoeba than boxy, and anchoring it all with a nice, big brick oven. Look, it’s not a like a villa in Tuscany or anything, but you have to appreciate when somebody things about lighting and ergonomics and shit. I’ve had several different things here, including a panini or two, a sandwich of some sort and even a chicken roll. All were completely fine, but won’t be touted by Michelin anytime soon. At this point it’s pretty clear that all the lunch places around Rock Center have pretty much the same recipes for their sandwiches, so I have to judge them on intangibles like curvy counters, clear, bar-coded price tags and a logo that was clearly done by some high-priced branding company. [MF]
1290 6th Ave.