Many have likened eating a meal in America to chowing down in an airplane hangar. This is not only a comment about the size of the place, but the decibel level as well. I could barely hear the smack of my Fluffernutter sandwich over the din of screaming children, babbling foreigners and drunken co-workers. We think the gimmick here is that they offer the best dish from restaurants from all over America. So, they tasted some BBQ chicken in North Carolina at Millie’s Mealshack that they liked, and they threw it on the menu for you to enjoy. This, of course, makes for an eclectic menu (including the aforementioned Fluffernutter sandwich) but not necessarily a tasty one. Imagine, if you will, twenty-seven very different dishes all cooked by the same chef at Bennigan’s. They’re all going to taste kinda like the chicken fingers or the potato skins. Know what we mean? We assume they didn’t actually get the recipes from these places they went to — otherwise they’d taste better. Instead, they must have guessed and figured quantity would make up for the lack of quality. Anyhow, if you have a group of picky cheapskates that you want to take out somewhere that doesn’t start with a Mc, Burger or Houlihan’s, then you could do worse — I guess. [MF]
9 E 18th St.
212/505-2110
