The concept behind this place is actually kinda cool. Charlie Palmer (who I originally thought was that old golfer with the funny pants and the awful vineyard) has created a small, neighborhood restaurant that offers gourmet food for a $25 prix fixed price. It takes the guessing and anxiety out of a night out. The wine list is also sensible, with all bottles either $25 or $35. Now you don’t have to look like a total cheap-ass when ordering the second-cheapest bottle on the menu for a whopping $65. The space itself is a warm, modern mixture that is more downtown than most of the small joints on the UWS–if not a little Ikea-like with its clean, light wood and funky mosaic tiles. The food itself is new American meats, fish and chicken with some nice, savory sauces. It’s not cutting-edge or particularly memorable in the scheme of things, but was certainly decent and well-prepared. I seem the recall the dessert being the best part of the meal, but had a very pleasant time hanging out enjoying the atmosphere. While it is a tad generic–as the name might suggest–we can certainly recommend it for those of you looking to break out of the Italian and Mexican doldrums. [MF]
461 Columbus Ave.
212/875-1619
