We’ve come to the conclusion that the only people who don’t like fish are hyperactive five-year-olds whose basic diet consists of fruit roll-ups and Chipwiches and adults that haven’t tried anything beyond a Friendly’s Fishamajig SuperMelt. Even Mr. Hipster admits that he hasn’t tried everything there is to try when it comes to our friends from the sea. That’s why there are places like Pisces. Everything is fresh, simple and good. If you want to try skate (and we certainly suggest you do) then you’ll get skate and nothing but the skate. None of this French stuff drenched in so many cooked fruits and glazed bric-a-brac that your meal ends up tasting like a stale cilantro-braised carnival funnel cake or a briny shoe soaked in a frat boy’s giant dipcup. We’re not saying that the food is boring or tasteless, just prepared so that you can enjoy the natural taste of the fish, and maybe a simple sauce that compliments–instead of covers up–the succulent essence of our scaly buddies. The restaurant has a nice nautical theme that pushes it a little, but doesn’t take the kitsch over the edge. It’s kind of like chowing down in a trendy, yuppie version of an authentic Cape Cod joint–minus the salty sea captain, the stink of the docks and the $5 lobster. [MF]

95 Avenue A