Give me Mao! Actually, we could take it or leave it. The food at this place is about as authentic Chinese as Olive Garden is authentic Italian. In other words, the grub has been SoHo-ized to the point where it is neither satisfying nor particularly tasty. What is SoHo-ized you ask? Think of a basic black v-neck sweater that is neither comfortable nor particularly warm, but looks nice with a pair of pants and makes people ooh and ahh because it has some famous dude’s name sewn in the neck. All style, no substance. The food has been sapped of its soul and its flavor in favor of vapid waitresses and uncomfortable, industrial seating. Everything seems to be floating in some sort of flavorless broth and made with little attention to detail. On the up side, the prices aren’t ridiculous and your lungs will get a real work out trying to shout over the din of second-tier models on their cell phones. [MF]

37 Union Square W