The original location of the John’s four store franchise makes your local Taco Bell look like Tavern on the Green. A mural from god-knows-where adorns one wall and the wooden tables look as if they were “built by a blind, one-armed seamstress.” Luckily, the brick-oven pizza is like Manna sent from the Sicilian gods. Just don’t be surprised if you are rudely shooed outside to wait for a table any time of the day. [MF]
278 Bleecker St.
212/243-1680
johnsofbleecker.com