Despite its schizophrenic menu and touristy locale, Ruby Foo’s never seems to disappoint for a visual experience that is somehow both over and underwhelming all at the same time. Walking into the high-ceilinged dining room, one is struck by the sheer bustle of it all. Patrons ebb and flow like the currents under the Golden Gate Bridge, while servers pirouette with trays filled with everything from chicken sate to bizarro sushi rolls. We’re happy the place is so nice to look at, because we waited for a table for what seemed like a decade. We’re not sure if our server became the only twenty-first century mammal to ever become entrapped in a tar pit, or maybe had to have an emergency appendectomy, but she disappeared and neglected to replace herself. We finally flagged down an alternate who took care of us in a way more conducive to, well, eating (after all, that’s why we came here). Now, we don’t know if it was because we waited so long, but this Ruby Foo’s seemed to put a little more effort into their food. The sushi rolls tasted just a little more fresh (but not as good as any authentic Japanese restaurant) and the pad Thai had a little more oomph (but not as much oomph as an authentic Thai restaurant). Basically, this is a great place to take your uncle from Tupelo who hasn’t eaten anything but pig parts and grits his entire life. Pad Thai, hogtie–what’s the difference? [MF]
1626 Broadway
212/489-5600
rubyfoos.com
