Doughy and not in any way refined, the pizza at what amounts to a corner stand a stone’s throw from the brutally nasty PABT is one step above a slice you might get at the zoo. The sauce has too much oregano in it, the cheese probably comes in a giant frozen ball from Cisco and the crust itself is, for lack of a better word, indelicate. But for a dollar a slice, what do you expect? In a town where pizza prices have gone completely bonkers, a bargain, regardless of the perceived QVP (quality versus price) index, is still a bargain. As an every day lunch this joint could ruin your pizza taste aesthetic in quick order, but if you’re scrounging for change, drunk or starving it could certainly do in a pinch. [MF]
542 9th Ave.