Taco & Tortilla King


One of life’s great mysteries is the proliferation of Chinese Mexican joints around the city of Manhattan. Do these places exist anywhere outside of the city limits? Are these Chinese immigrants only trying their hand at making tacos because the market for General Tso’s chicken was saturated? Does anyone think these same owners ever tasted Mexican food before coming to our shores? Even then, did they just taste Mexican food made by other Chinese immigrants? One bite of “The King’s” tacos will answer at least a few of these questions. The owner/cook at this particular establishment has had no culinary training in the art of flavoring, preparing or serving Mexican dishes. Unfortunately chicken is not chicken. In other words, cooking chicken for chicken fried rice and cooking chicken for chicken burritos is a very different process. The King does not appreciate this subtle difference. Also (and this is a problem encountered at all the city’s Chinese Mexican places), tortillas are not supposed to be opaque like moo-shu pancakes. We don’t like being able to see what is in our taco while peering through its shell. All the bitching aside, you really won’t be able to find better drunk food than the King. We’d think royalty would live in a better-looking place than this dump, but with the amount of food you get for your dollar, you’ll have no problem calling him “Your Highness.” [MF]

285 3rd Ave.