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Think of it as an airplane hangar with a good interior decorator. This remarkably down-to-earth, whatever-this-neigborhood-is-called, eatery looks forboding with its high ceilings and attractive waitstaff, but manages to feel like a neighborhood restaurant in a Goliath’s shell. The menu actually makes your choice difficult, with a good mixture of fish, salads and meat. If you love squid, (and who doesn’t) the fried calamari is the best in town. [MF]
225 Park Ave. S.
212/533-2500
